HSC · Year 11 · Physics · Waves live from the app

Reading water depth from the waves

Ocean waves keep the same frequency all the way to the shore, because the wind far out at sea set it. In deep water their speed depends on wavelength, not depth, but once the water is shallower than about half a wavelength the sea floor slows them, and in shallow water v = √(gd). Since v = fλ with f fixed, slower waves also have shorter wavelengths, so crests bunch up, steepen and break over shallow ground. Coastal Aboriginal Peoples read these changes in wave speed and spacing to judge water depth and find reefs, sandbars and channels. This is the real knowscape from knowhere, not a picture of one. Drag it. Watch what actually changes.

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in the wild

Waves work like two drips in the sink.

A wave carries energy, not stuff: each bit of the medium oscillates in place while the pattern moves on at v = fλ (light needs no medium). Everything else here is that pattern meeting something: a new medium bends it, a gap spreads it, a second wave adds to it, a moving source squashes it.

Two drips fall side by side, about to hit the still water.

They land and rings spread out from each one, getting fainter as they grow.

Where rings cross they stack or cancel, then pass through each other unchanged.

what you leave with

five things, not forty.

what's underneath

nothing here is a standalone fact.

knowhere maps every concept to what it rests on and what rests on it — 2 underneath this one, 0 built on top. Each one says why, in a sentence, not as an arrow on a diagram.

this conceptreading water depth from the wavesA cross-section of a coast with a canoe riding the swell.
sits under itwave graphs against time and distancebecause Reading wavelength, frequency and v = fλ from wave graphs comes before using them to judge depth.
sits under ittransverse and longitudinal wavesbecause Knowing what a wave carries and how its crests travel helps before watching water waves slow down.
the rest of waves

9 more, same treatment.

Each one is its own knowscape in the app — built for how a particular student takes things in, not one explanation handed to everybody.

transverse and longitudinal wavesin the appwave graphs against time and distancein the appsound waves pitch and loudnessin the appinverse square law for light and soundin the appreflection and refraction at a boundaryin the appripple tank: waves bending round gapsin the appstanding waves on a stringin the appdoppler effect for sound and lightin the apphow glasses refocus light on the retinain the app
this is one of 865

they don't read it. they run it.

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knowhere›hsc physics year 11›reading water depth from the waves